RECENT EXPEDITIONS

MT. DZO JONGO (EAST) - II 6220 MTR & MT. DZO JONGO (WEST) – I 6307 MTR : 30 th June 2024 :

Expedition Details:

• Peak Name:Dzo Jongo (East) – II 6220 meters & Mt. Dzo Jongo (West) – I 6307 meters.
• Expedition Leader: Colonel Hem Chandra Singh, Principal JIM and WS
• Expedition Start Date: 30 th June 2024
• Summit Date: 1 st July, 0830 hours & 1130 hours respectively

Team Composition:

• Total Team Members: 11
• Team Leader:Colonel Hem Chandra Singh (Team Leader ,Principal JIM&WS)
• Members:
  Capt Shruti S Chanaveeragoudra (RMO, JIM & WS)
  Mr. Mahfooz Ilahi Hajam (Team Manager/LO JIM & WS)
  Sub Showkat Ahmad Mir (JIM&WS)
  Mrs. Manisha R Gaind (Member)
  Hav Ramesh Kumar (JIM&WS)
  Nk Ajay Kumar Chauhan (JIM&WS)
  L/Nk Ram Rattan
  L/Nk Bupinder Singh
  Miss. Tsering Ladol (JIM&WS)
  Mr. Waseem Hassan Rather (Photographer JIM & WS)

Permission and Notification:

• No external agency permission was required due to the Institute's status.
• Indian Mountaineering Foundation (IMF) was informed in advance of the expedition.

Expedition Objectives:

• To promote the adventure tourism in the country especially Jammu and Kashmir (UT).
• Igniting the spirit of adventure among participants and spectators alike.
• Divert the energy of youth towards nation-building and adventure sports.

Expedition Itinerary:

• 30 th June: Team shifted from the Base Camp of Kang Yatse to Dzo Jongo Base Camp.
• 01 st July: Summited the both peaks at, 0830 hours & 1130 hours respectively and returned to the Base Camp by 1900hrs.

Summit Description:

• Mt. Dzo Jongo – II & I are located in the beautiful Zanskar region of Ladakh in northern India standing at 6220 meters & 6307 meters respectively.
• The trek takes us through picturesque villages, remote landscapes and pristine alpine meadows.
• The peak offers a challenging climb and stunning views of the surrounding valleys and mountains.
• Summit route was challenging, with a loose rocks/ scree chutes and snowy/glacier sections with dangerous open/hidden crevasses and rock gapes.
• The ascent to the summit of Mt. Dzo Jongo – II & I is a mix of calming and challenging climb. It takes climbers through a challenging terrain of icy fields, big boulders and loose rocks /scree.

Challenges Faced:

• Hazardous conditions due to big boulders and loose scree.
Long approach from the base camp.

Achievements:

• Successful summit of Mt. Dzo Jongo (East) – II & Mt. Dzo Jongo (West) – I on 1 st July 2024.
• The expedition created a record of first ascent of Dzo Jongo-I of the year 2024.
• Potential to enhance adventure tourism in the country and especially Jammu and Kashmir (UT).

Conclusion:

• The Mt. Dzo Jongo – II & I Expedition 2024 led by Colonel Hem Chandra Singh and a testament to the resilience and determination of the team members from JIM and WS
• Despite facing challenges by big boulders/ scree, and physical exhaustion, the team reached the summit. This achievement is expected to inspire and attract more youth towards adventure tourism
and mountaineering in the country and especially in Jammu and Kashmir (UT).
• The expedition was dedicated to the best Instructors of the Institute and the indomitable human spirit that drives individuals to surpass their limits.
• It served as a learning journey, showcasing the power of calculated risk and faith in achieving great feats. Jai Hind!

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EXPEDITION REPORT: MT. KANG YATSE – II (6250 MTR): 11 th June 2024

Expedition Details:

• Peak Name:Mt. Kangyatse – II (6250 meters)
• Expedition Leader: Colonel Hem Chandra Singh, Principal JIM and WS
• Expedition Start Date: 11 th June 2024
• Summit Date: 21st June, 1215 hours

Team Composition:

• Total Team Members: 16
• Team Leader:Colonel Hem Chandra Singh (Team Leader ,Principal JIM&WS)
• Members:
  Mr. Mahfooz Ilahi Hajam (Team Manager/LO JIM & WS) Subedar Showkat Ahmad Mir (JIM&WS)
  Mrs. Shashi Bahuguna (Member)
  Mr. Waseem Hassan Rather (Photographer JIM & WS)
  27 NCC Cadets and 13 other participants from different parts of the country

Permission and Notification:

• No external agency permission was required due to the Institute's status.
• Indian Mountaineering Foundation (IMF) was informed in advance of the expedition.

Expedition Objectives:

• To promote the adventure tourism in the country especially Jammu and Kashmir (UT).
• Igniting the spirit of adventure among participants and spectators alike.
• Divert the energy of youth towards nation-building and adventure sports.

Expedition Itinerary:

• 11 th June: Flag-off at JIM and WS, Sonamarg and reached Nimmu Leh. (Acclimatization for three days)
• 14 th June: Moved to Markha Valley Intermediate Camp (Acclimatization for two days).
• 16 th June: Moved to Thachungtse Intermediate Camp (Acclimatization for two days).
• 18 th June: Moved to Base Camp & did rotations upto Advance Base Camp for acclimatization upto 20 th June 2024.
• 21 st June: Summited the peak at 1215hrs and return to the Base Camp by 1830hrs despite extremely bad weather conditions.

Summit Description:

• Mt. Kangyatse – II is one of the highest peaks in the vast expanse of the arid terrain in Ladakh region standing at 6250 meters.
• The summit route was challenging, with a narrow snowy ridge with cornice, loose rocky terrain upto the Advance Base Camp, and steep sections with dangerous open/hidden crevasses.
• The top provided a picturesque view of the Nimaling/ Markha Valley, including Karu Army Base. The peak is a thing of sheer beauty standing tall in the middle of the dry land of scree and loose rocks.

Challenges Faced:

• Hazardous conditions due to loose scree, narrow snowy ridges with cornices and dangerous open/hidden crevasses.
• Adverse weather with heavy snowfall including blizzards during ascent as well as descent.
• Skiing and snowboarding were deemed impossible due to extremely bad weather and there was possible threat of slab avalanche but we accomplished it.

Achievements:

• Successful summit of Mt. Kangyatse – II on 21 st June 2024.
• The expedition created a record of first ascent in ski boots and first descent in snow board.
• Potential to enhance adventure tourism in the country and especially Jammu and Kashmir (UT).

Conclusion:

• The Mt. Kang Yatse - II Expedition 2024 led by Colonel Hem Chandra Singh and a testament to the resilience and determination of the team members from JIM and WS and National Cadet Corps (NCC) proved to be a remarkable success.
• Despite facing extreme weather conditions, challenges in route opening, and physical exhaustion, the team reached the summit. This achievement is expected to inspire and attract more youth towards adventure tourism and mountaineering in the country and especially in Jammu and Kashmir (UT).
• The expedition was dedicated to the best Instructors of the Institute and the indomitable human spirit that drives individuals to surpass their limits.
• It served as a learning journey, showcasing the power of calculated risk and faith in achieving great feats. Jai Hind!

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MT. KANG YATSE – I (6415 MTR): 24 th June 2024

Expedition Details:

• Peak Name:Mt. Kangyatse – I (6415 meters)
• Expedition Leader: Colonel Hem Chandra Singh, Principal JIM and WS
• Expedition Start Date: 24 th June 2024
• Summit Date: 28 th June, 0604 hours

Team Composition:

• Total Team Members: 11
• Team Leader:Colonel Hem Chandra Singh (Team Leader ,Principal JIM&WS)
• Members:
  Capt Shruti S Chanaveeragoudra (RMO, JIM & WS)
  Mr. Mahfooz Ilahi Hajam (Team Manager/LO JIM & WS)
  Sub Showkat Ahmad Mir (JIM&WS)
  Mrs. Manisha R Gaind (Member)
  Hav Ramesh Kumar (JIM&WS)
  Nk Ajay Kumar Chauhan (JIM&WS)
  L/Nk Ram Rattan
  L/Nk Bupinder Singh
  Miss. Tsering Ladol (JIM&WS)
  Mr. Waseem Hassan Rather (Photographer JIM & WS)

Permission and Notification:

• No external agency permission was required due to the Institute's status.
• Indian Mountaineering Foundation (IMF) was informed in advance of the expedition.

Expedition Objectives:

• To promote the adventure tourism in the country especially Jammu and Kashmir (UT).
• Igniting the spirit of adventure among participants and spectators alike.
• Divert the energy of youth towards nation-building and adventure sports.

Expedition Itinerary:

• 24 th June : Load Ferry to Camp – I.
• 25 th June: Rope Fixing & Route Opening upto the Summit Camp.
• 26 th June: Team Moved to the Summit Camp from the Base Camp.
• 27 th June: Rope Fixing & Route Opening towards the Summit
• 28 th June: Summited the peak at 0604hrs and returned to the Base Camp by 1730hrs.

Summit Description:

• Mt. Kangyatse – I is one of the most strenuous and rewarding climbs in the Himalayan region in the vast expanse of the arid terrain in Ladakh region standing at 6415 meters.
• The peak is throne – shaped peak standing at a towering height and offers breathtaking views of the Stok Kangri, Dzo Jongo and Karakoram range of peaks.
• Summit route was challenging, with a hanging glacier, loose seracs, and steep sections with dangerous open/hidden crevasses.
• The ascent to the summit of Kang Yatse – I takes climbers through a challenging terrain and is not recommended for novice trekkers. It features a well-balanced fusion of breathtaking landscapes and challenges that offers climbers an opportunity to explore their mountaineering skills. However, the summit offers an unforgettable panoramic view of the surrounding mountains, including the Mt K2, Broad Peak, Gaserbrum Massif to the North, Mt Nun, Mt Kun and the Zanskar peaks to the west.

Challenges Faced:

• Hazardous conditions due to loose seracs, hanging glaciers / cornices and dangerous open/ hidden crevasses.
• - Broken ridges, hard ice/ soft snow beneath the summit.
• To cover the last 400 meters to the summit of the dome with a cornice.
Long approach from the base camp.

Achievements:

• Successful summit of Mt. Kangyatse – I on 28 th June 2024.
• The expedition created a record of first ascent of the year 2024.
• Potential to enhance adventure tourism in the country and especially Jammu and Kashmir (UT).

Conclusion:

• The Mt. Kang Yatse - I Expedition 2024 led by Colonel Hem Chandra Singh and a testament to the resilience and determination of the team members from JIM and WS
• Despite facing challenges in the route opening, and physical exhaustion, the team reached the summit. This achievement is expected to inspire and attract more youth towards adventure tourism and mountaineering in the country and especially in Jammu and Kashmir (UT).
• The expedition was dedicated to the best Instructors of the Institute and the indomitable human spirit that drives the individuals to surpass their limits.
• It served as a learning journey, showcasing the power of calculated risk and faith in achieving great feats. Jai Hind!

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MT KUN(7077M): 30th June 2023

Expedition Details:

• Expedition Name: MT KUN Expedition
• Expedition Leader: Colonel Hem Chandra Singh, Principal JIM and WS
• Expedition Start Date: 30th June 2023
• Expedition End Date: 18th July 2023
• Base Camp Arrival Date: 06th June 2023
• Base Camp Departure Date: 12th June 2023
• Peak Name: MT KUN (7077 m)
• Primary Choice of Peak: MT KUN

Team Information:

• Total Team Size:
  15 (5 climbing members who were instructors form JIM and WS and 10 supporting staff). The team was self contained in every aspect and no Doctor however; doctor from 19 Div team which was led by Col Rajneesh Joshi supported the team with respect to the medical requirement. However team had a Nursing Assistant who provided close medical support.

• Team Members:
  Colonel Hem Chandra Singh (Team Leader ,Principal JIM&WS) Subedar Showkat Ahmad Mir (Senior Instructor, JIM and WS) Havildar Instructor Bharat Rawat (Instructor, JIM and WS) Havildar Instructor Nirmal Singh (Instructor, JIM and WS) Havildar Instructor Thaman Bahadur Thapa (Instructor, JIM &WS)

Expedition Funding:

• Supported by the funds granted to the institute by the Government of India as grants, separate money was earmarked for conduct of the expedition, a total expenditure of 3 Lakhs was spent on the conduct of the expedition. The same was within the resources of JIM and WS.

Permission and Notification:

• As being a National Mountaineering Institute it is authorized to undertake expeditions for training of instructors and students, however, advance information is given to Indian Mountain Foundation (IMF) prior to conduct of the expedition and in addition all the local authorities of Kargil region were also informed with all the requisite dates prior to the expedition.

Expedition Overview:

• MT KUN is the highest peak of UT of Ladakh, standing at 7077 m (23,219 feet). Mt Kun consists of Twin Mountains, Mt Nun and Mt Kun, separated by a snowy plateau of approximately 4 km. Notable ascents of Mt KUN include one in 1913 by an Italian team and another in 1971 by the Indian Army. The team was on a mission to summit both Mt Nun and Mt Kun in one expedition and thus creating a history of climbing both the peaks in one expedition for the first time in history. The expedition was jointly done with 19 Division team led by Col Rajneesh Joshi. After occupation of the Base Camp it heavily snowed thus making the further move difficult. There were multiple routes chosen for the Summit and finally the summit was attempted from the traditional route only.

Selection, Training, and Acclimatization:

• Flag-off was on 30th June 2023 in Pahalgam by Principal JIM and WS. The team underwent rigorous preparation, including a 50 km march from Pahalgam to Sonamarg, visiting the Holy Amarnath Cave. The team reached Shapath Nala, the roadhead of MT KUN, on 05th July 2023, and prepared stores and equipment.

Route and Camp Establishment:

• The team moved to base camp on 6th July 2023, facing bad weather until 10th July 2023.
• Training at base camp included rescue and glacier equipment.
• Route fixing from Camp 1 to Camp 2 was completed, including an 800 m wall with a gradient of 72-80°.
• Camp 2 was established at approximately 6200 m.
• Camp 3 (Summit Camp) was reached at approximately 6400 m.

Summit Attempt:

• Challenges included a 400 m wall, 1400 m sharp ridge, and a cornice.
• Rope fixing started on 16th July but was hindered by bad weather.
• The final rope fixing party succeeded in reaching the summit on 18th July at 11:31 hours.
• The team chanted the Hanuman Chalisa on the summit.
• Descent was completed to Summit Camp, Camp 1, and base camp by 19th July.

Conclusion:

• The team successfully summited Mt Kun with all five members on 18th July 2023. A safe descent was made to the base camp and the start point.

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MT NUN (7135): 22nd July 2023

Expedition Details:

• Expedition Name: MT Nun Expedition
• Expedition Leader: Colonel Hem Chandra Singh (Principal, JIM and WS)
• Expedition Start Date: 22nd July 2023
• Expedition End Date: 4th August 2023
• Advance Base Camp Arrival Date: 23rd July 2023
• Advance Base Camp Departure Date: 26th July 2023
• Peak Name: MT Nun (7135 m)
• Primary Choice of Peak: MT Nun

Team Information:

• Total Team Size: 6

• Doctor in Team: No

• Paramedic/Nursing Assistant: Yes (Also the Paramedic)

• Total Team Size: 6

• Total Team Size: 6

• Team Members:
  Colonel Hem Chandra Singh (Team Leader ,Principal JIM&WS)
  Havildar Instructor Bharat Singh Rawat (JIM&WS)
  Havildar Instructor Thaman Bahadur Thapa (JIM&WS)
  Havildar Instructor Kamal Purja Pun (JIM&WS)
  Havildar Instructor Rajender Mukhiya (JIM&WS)

Expedition Funding:

• Funded by JIM and WS (Jawahar Institute of Mountaineering and Winter Sports) from the government of India's allotted funds.

• Approximate Budget: Approximately 2.5 Lakhs INR

Permission and Notification:

• No external agency permission was required due to the institute's status.

• Indian Mountain Foundation was informed in advance of the expedition.

Expedition Overview:

• MT Nun, standing at 7135 m, was the primary choice peak for this expedition.

• The expedition was led by Colonel Hem Chandra Singh, the Principal of JIM and WS.

• The team aimed to summit MT Nun and had a challenging journey ahead.

Expedition Timeline:

• Advance Base Camp to Camp 1:
  - Established Camp 1 on 26th July 2023 at 5300 m.
  - Weather at Camp 1 remained unfavorable with snow, blizzards, and fog.

• Camp 1 to Camp 2:
  - Reconnaissance of traditional route was carried out. - A 48 feet ladder was brought to bridge a gap between Camp 1 and Camp 2. - Due to bad weather on 29th July 2023, the team returned to Advance Base Camp.

• New Route Attempt:
  - The team decided to open a new route as the traditional route became non-viable. - On 1st August 2023, the team established Camp 2.
  - The new route was steep, and only 1000 m of route opening could be done on 2nd August 2023.
  - Additional 1000 m were completed on 3rd August 2023.

• Summit Attempt from Camp 2: - The team decided to summit from Camp 2 on 3rd August 2023.
  - Rope fixing continued, but weather deteriorated on the same day.
  - Camp 3 was established at 6400 m.

Final Summit Attempt:

• On 4th August 2023, the team started the final summit attempt.
• The route was extremely challenging, with a vertical 70-80° steep, rocky, and icy pitch.
• After multiple difficulties, the summit was reached at 17:20 hours.
• The team performed prayers and began the descent.
• The team reached Camp 2 at 01:00 hours on 5th August 2023.

Achievements:

• The team took an unconventional route and achieved the fastest climb of MT Nun, completing it in four days from base camp to summit.
• The expedition created a record for the fastest ascent of a 7000 m peak.
• It successfully summited both MT Nun and MT Kun in a single attempt.

Conclusion:

• The MT Nun expedition was a testament to the resilience and determination of the team members.
• Despite facing extreme weather conditions, challenges in route opening, and physical exhaustion, the team reached the summit.
• The expedition was dedicated to the best instructors of the Indian Army and the indomitable human spirit that drives individuals to surpass their limits.
• It served as a learning journey, showcasing the power of calculated risk and faith in achieving great feats.

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MT. TULIAN/KATSAL: 29th August 2023

Expedition Details:

• Peak Name: Mt. Tulian/Katsal (4875 meters)
• Organizers: Jawahar Institute of Mountaineering and Winter Sports (JIM and WS) in collaboration with the All Jammu Kashmir Mountaineering Foundation.
• Expedition Start Date: 29th August 2023
• Base Camp Arrival Date: 29th August 2023
• Base Camp Departure Date: 30th August 2023
• Total Team Members: 15
• Approximately Rs. 1, 00,000(Funded by All Jammu Kashmir Mountaineering Foundation)

Expedition Objectives:

• Promote adventure tourism and mountaineering in Jammu and Kashmir.

• Open new avenues of knowledge and experience for all enthusiasts.

• Assist All Jammu Kashmir Mountaineering Foundation in promoting adventure tourism.

• Serve as a catalyst for positive youth engagement and nation-building.

Route Details:

• The expedition route starts from Pahalgam and proceeds through Baisaran, Tulian Maidan, and Tulian Lake.

• The peak is situated on the northeast side of Pahalgam.

• The path includes traversing a narrow ridge, a glacier (2 km), a steep ice-covered section, and finally a rocky patch (1.5 km) to reach the peak.

Scenic Views:

• From the peak, one can enjoy breathtaking views of several prominent ranges, including Brahma Peak, Mt. Nun, Mt. Kun, Mt. Harmukh, and Mt. Tatakooti

• The surrounding area boasts stunning natural beauty, with Tulian Lake adding to the picturesque landscape.

Team Members:

• Expedition Leader: Colonel Hem Chandra Singh
  Members: Sub Showkat Ahmed Mir (Senior Instructor JIM&WS)
  Hav Ajay Kumar Chauhan (Instructor JIM&WS)
  Mr. Danish Showkat Dhar (All Jammu Kashmir Mountaineering Foundation)
  Mr. Waseem Hassan Rather (All Jammu Kashmir Mountaineering Foundation)
  Mr. Aamir Lateef Dhar (All Jammu Kashmir Mountaineering Foundation)
  Mr. Mudasir Ahmad Malik (All Jammu Kashmir Mountaineering Foundation)
  Mr. Faik Aijaz Pattoo (All Jammu Kashmir Mountaineering Foundation)
  Mr. Fayaz Ahmad Sheikh (All Jammu Kashmir Mountaineering Foundation)
  Mr. Chandan Pal Singh (All Jammu Kashmir Mountaineering Foundation)
  Mr. Bilal Ahmad Bhat ( All Jammu Kashmir Mountaineering Foundation)
  Mr. Muazzan Ahsan (All Jammu Kashmir Mountaineering Foundation)
  Mr. Akeel Dar (All Jammu Kashmir Mountaineering Foundation)

Key Roles:

• Rope fixing and route opening: Handled by Hav Iqbal and Hav Ajay Kumar Chauhan.

• Subedar Showkat Ahmad Mir acted as a power block, ensuring the safety and support of all team members.

• Hav Iqbal also served as a battlefield nursing assistant, ensuring medical support for the team.

Peak Description:

• Mt. Tulian/Katsal is a beautiful peak located on the base of Tulian Lake.

• The peak is partially covered with snow approximately 1.5 km from the summit.

• The summit itself is barren, characterized by loose rocks and marines.

Conclusion:

• The Mt. Tulian/Katsal Expedition 2023 led by Colonel Hem Chandra Singh, Principal JIM&WS and organized by Jawahar Institute of Mountaineering and Winter Sports in collaboration with the All Jammu Kashmir Mountaineering Foundation, achieved its objectives of promoting adventure tourism, fostering knowledge, and motivating youth towards positive endeavors. This challenging and picturesque expedition will undoubtedly serve as a beacon for adventure tourism in Jammu and Kashmir, redirecting the energy of the youth towards a brighter future and contributing to nation-building. Jai Hind!



Flag Off at JIM & WS



Team at Tulian Base Camp



Team on the Summit of Mt Tulian



Institute Flag on the Summit of Mt Katsal/Tulian

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MT. DELTA 41: 15th September 2023

Expedition Details:

• Peak Name : Mt. Delta 41 (5918 meters)
• Expedition Leader: Colonel Hem Chandra Singh, Principal JIM &WS
• Expedition Start Date: 15th September 2023
• Expedition End Date: 19th September 2023
• Base Camp Arrival Date 17th September 2023
• Base Camp Departure Date: 19th September 2023

Team Composition:

• Total Team Members: 20
• Expedition Leader : Colonel Hem Chandra Singh
• Advisor : Colonel Surinder Singh Rajpurohit
• Medical Support: Maj Dr. K Bijoy
• Instructors:
  Nb/Sub Bharat Rawat
  Hav Ajay Kumar Chauhan
  Hav Thaman Bahadur Thapa
  Hav Kamal Purja Pun
  Mr. Muzaffar Ahmad Lone
  L/Nk Bhupinder
  L/Nk Ram Rattan.
  Students from AMC 49: 10 selected out of a total of 45.

Expedition Objectives:

• Provide exposure and advanced challenges to instructors and students from JIM and WS and AMC 49.

• Foster a spirit of adventure among students

• Facilitate training for future adventure activities.

• Scale Mt. Delta 41 successfully.

Expedition Itinerary:

• 15th September: Expedition commenced from Sonamarg, Jammu and Kashmir

• 16th September: First load ferry from the road head to base camp

• 17th September: Camp 1 established and occupied.

• 18th September: Load ferry from base camp to Camp 1, party moved back

• 19th September: Summit Camp occupied by 12:00 hours. Summit reached at 16:45 hours

Peak Description:

• Mt. Delta 41 stands at a height of 5918 meters.

• Located on the same glacier as Mount Nun.

• Offers picturesque views of surrounding mountain ranges, including Mt. Nun, Mt. Kun, Mt. Pinnacle, and others.

• Provides a suitable training ground for students with moderate difficulty.

Route Description

• The route required approximately 600 meters of rope. It involved a steep wall from base camp to Camp 1, followed by a flat glacier march of approximately 1 km, and then a steep ascent of approximately 60° over 1.5 km to the summit.

Médical Support:

• Major Dr. Bijoy provided medical assistance up to base camp.

Expédition Achievements:

• A total of 19 members successfully summited Mt. Delta 41.

• Fast expedition with nine summits within two days.

• Dispelled the myth regarding the peak's height (5918m).

• Provided valuable learning experiences in glacier navigation and steep ascents.

Conclusion:

• The Mt. Delta 41 Expedition 2023, led by Colonel Hem Chandra Singh, proved to be a successful adventure that provided advanced challenges to both instructors and students. It fostered the spirit of adventure and facilitated valuable training for future endeavors. The achievement of nine summits within two days showcased the team's determination and capabilities. This expedition is expected to encourage more students and enthusiasts to explore adventure activities. Jai Hind!



Team at Base Camp



Team Toward Summit Camp



Team at Summit Camp



National and JIM & WS Flag on the Summit

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MT. KALOHOI: 3rd September 2023

Expedition Details:

• Peak Name :Mt. Kolahoi (5425 meters)
• Expedition Leader: Colonel Hem Chandra Singh, Principal JIM and WS
• Expedition Start Date: 3rd September 2023
• Summit Date: 6th September 2023, 10:15 hours
• Base Camp: Satlanjan

Team Composition:

• Total Team Members: 16
• Expedition Leader : Colonel Hem Chandra Singh, (Principal JIM&WS)
• Members:
  Sub Showkat Ahmad Mir (JIM&WS)
  Hav Mohamad Iqbal (JIM&WS)
  Hav Ajay Kumar Chauhan (JIM&WS)
  Mr. Danish Showkat Dhar (All Jammu Kashmir Mountaineering Foundation)
  Mr. Waseem Hassan Rather (All Jammu Kashmir Mountaineering Foundation)
  Mr. Aamir Lateef Dhar ( All Jammu Kashmir Mountaineering Foundation)
  Mr. Mudasir Ahmad Malik (All Jammu Kashmir Mountaineering Foundation)
  Mr. Faik Aijaz Pattoo (All Jammu Kashmir Mountaineering Foundation)
  Mr. Fayaz Ahmad Sheikh (All Jammu Kashmir Mountaineering Foundation)
  Mr. Chandan Pal Singh (All Jammu Kashmir Mountaineering Foundation)
  Mr. Bilal Ahmad Bhat (All Jammu Kashmir Mountaineering Foundation)
  Mr. Muazzan Ahsan (All Jammu Kashmir Mountaineering Foundation)
  Mr. Akeel Dar ( All Jammu Kashmir Mountaineering Foundation)

Expedition Objectives:

• Promote adventure tourism in Jammu and Kashmir.

• Divert the energy of youth towards nation-building and adventure sports.

Expedition Itinerary:

• 3rd September: Flag-off at JIM and WS reached Satlanjan, campfire and merry-making.

• 4th September:Moved to Camp 1 near Lake Dudhsaran.

• 5th September: Crossed Kolahoi glacier and reached Summit Camp.

• 6th September: Summit at 10:15 hours, descent, and return to Camp 2100 (Dudhsaran).

Summit Description:

• Mt. Kolahoi is the highest peak in the Kashmir Valley, standing at 5425 meters.

• The summit route was challenging, with a narrow ridge, loose rocks, and steep sections.

• The top provided a picturesque view of the Kashmir region, including Mount Harmu, Mount Tulian, and other peaks.

Challenges Faced:

• Hazardous conditions due to loose rocks, Dabri cliffs, and narrow ridge.

• Adverse weather with heavy snowfall during descent.

• Lightning strikes due to the peak's conical structure.

• Cautious descent due to lightning risk and conical structure.

• Medical support provided to locals in need.

Role of Hav Instructor Iqbal:

• Route opening party commander.

• Responsible for rope fixing and equipment management.

Achievements:

• Successful summit of Mt. Kolahoi on 6th September 2023.

• Boosted motivation among locals for adventure sports and mountaineering.

• Potential to enhance adventure tourism in Jammu and Kashmir.

Conclusion:

• The Mt. Kolahoi Expedition 2023 led by Colonel Hem Chandra Singh and featuring a team of dedicated climbers from JIM and WS and All Jammu Kashmir Mountaineering Foundation, proved to be a remarkable success. Despite the challenges posed by the peak's hazardous terrain and adverse weather, the team's determination and careful planning ensured a safe summit. This achievement is expected to inspire and attract more youth towards adventure tourism and mountaineering in Jammu and Kashmir, contributing positively to the region's development. Jai Hind!



Team Towards Lidderwat



Base Camp at Dodsar



Advance Base Camp / Summit Camp



Summit of Kolahoi Peak (5431 Metres)

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